Kapampangan Treats

Pick out treats for a holiday hamper at La Moderna Bakery, founded by Pablo and Narcisa Narciso in 1947.

The scent of bread baking, dispersed into the afternoon air to signal merienda time, received me on a recent trip to Guagua, Pampanga. The town is home to a popular neighborhood bakery called La Moderna, which has been churning out from its wood-fired oven best-loved breads and pastries since 1947. The bakery even won a gold medal during a pre-war Philippine exposition.

La Moderna Bakery’s glass counters are lined with everything from mamon to muffins to cookies and buns, an appearance that makes it look like a typical Filipino corner bakery. What makes the pilgrimage to this landmark worthwhile are the heirloom recipes memorialized between the layers of taisan cake or spread on top of their sans rival. The heirs of its founding couple, Pablo and Narcisa Narciso, continue the bakery’s tradition of using quality ingredients and techniques (known by heart by its loyal staff, some of whom had been with them for more than 40 years).

I first tasted their products in a Kapampangan-themed bazaar in Makati in 2006. The family jazzed up the presentation of their baked products through bright pink labels and ribbons tied to plastic canisters. A few days later, I was invited to their bakery where I got hooked on yema-cashew filled empanaditas and mamon tostado. That first trip endeared me to neighborhood bakeries that put a little bit more care in making their products. These little bakeries are a dying breed but it’s comforting to know they’re thriving quietly like La Moderna. Their fancier pastries may cost a little bit more but will garner you praise when you serve them for dessert at home.

These pudgy pastries are one of the reasons why so many people flock to La Moderna.

If you’re heading to Pampanga on a weekend food trip, La Moderna Bakery should be part of your itinerary for pasalubong. It’s just in front of the Burgos town plaza and the church in Guagua. Otherwise, look for their booth at the Salcedo Saturday Market in Makati and their soon-to-open store in San Juan this November.

Here are the Top Five La Moderna Bakery Treats to bring home from Pampanga:
1. Empanaditas. These little pudgy, half-moon shaped pastries went to the market and stuffed themselves silly with yema and coarsely chopped cashew. The first time I tasted them, I detected a hint of cheese on the dough. Nowadays, I can’t wait to get to the caramel-colored center.

2. Turrones de casuy. Tucked inside the paper-like wrapper called “oblea” is a nougat with a crunch. Its wrapper operates the same way as the edible translucent “wrapper” of White Rabbit candies: it’s edible and melts quickly when it hits the tongue.

Love that yema filling!

3. Inipit. It’s so easy to like this square cake, made from two slices of sponge cake and spread with light yema filling. Another yema-filled cake is the Taisan Roll, which was recently re-introduced to replace the La Moderna pianono. It’s a miniature jelly roll with a creamy yema custard filling.

4. Sampaguita cookies. If you like uraro or arrowroot cookies, the sampaguita is a prettier, slightly creamy version.

Sampaguita Cookies are dry enough to dunk in a cup of coffee or pop in your mouth like a lifesaver.

5. Masa podrida. These are chunky round cookies (La Moderna calls it a Filipino shortbread) with a floury texture. I love it when the sugar crystals cover the surface and turn into a burnt, polvoron-tasting sugar crust when baked.

La Moderna Bakery is located in Plaza Burgos, Guagua, Pampanga. For more information or order inquiries, they can be reached at their Pampanga number (45) 9000 242; by mobile at (0920) 9024 433; or on their blog at lamoderna1947.blogspot.com.

Text by Jenny B. Orillos
Photos courtesy of La Moderna Bakery and Angelo Narciso-Songco

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